A garden gate is the part of a fence you use most and is noticed first. It needs to open smoothly, close securely, and look right alongside the fencing, whether it serves a side passage, driveway, vegetable patch, or field boundary. A gate that is not the right type for the job, poorly measured, fitted to weak posts, or with unsuitable ironmongery, can quickly sag, stick, or, worse, not close at all.
This garden gate buying guide explains what to consider before ordering, so you can choose a gate that suits the space, the required level of security and the amount of day-to-day use it will receive.
Start with the job your gate needs to do
The best gate is not always the heaviest, most decorative or most expensive. A simple side gate to keep children and pets safely in the garden has different requirements from a wider entrance used regularly by wheelbarrows, ride-on mowers or tradespeople.
For side access, privacy and security are often the priority. A closeboard, or tongue-and-groove gate, can provide security and hide a rear garden from view. If the area is very exposed to wind, a palisade/picket or hit-and-miss design may be a better choice. For the budget-conscious, closeboard gates and palisade/picket gates both offer great value for money.
A pedestrian gate set into a fence line should usually match the height and style of the fence, or maybe a more upmarket gate made of a similar type of timber. e.g. a pressure-treated closeboard fence with a tongue and groove gate made with pressure-treated timber.
For a wider opening, consider whether a pair of gates would be more practical than a single leaf. Double gates halve the gate weight, provide better access when needed, and need less clear space behind them for opening.
It also pays to plan ahead. An 800mm opening may be adequate for everyday foot traffic, but it may not comfortably accommodate a wheelbarrow, mobility aid or garden machinery. Measure the largest item that will routinely pass through the gate and allow some extra clearance, before settling on a minimum width.
Measuring the opening
If you have an existing gap that requires a gate, e.g. between a house wall and a fence post. Measure the clear gap between the wall and the post. Take measurements at the top, middle and bottom of the proposed gate height and use the smallest measurement as your starting point. Take several measurements because house walls and fence posts are often not as straight as they look, and it is not unusual to find a 10mm difference. If there is a difference, don't worry; it will usually be covered by the gate stop and will not show.
The gate itself must be narrower than the opening to allow for hinges, a latch and a working clearance. For a normal house side gate, we would usually deduct 15mm from the smallest measurement to give the gate width, after allowing for any wall
Check the ground level as well. A gate on a sloping drive or path may need additional clearance below it. If the ground rises immediately behind the gate, it may foul the surface. Normally, the Crestala Team allow a 50mm ground clearance as standard on the gates that we manufacture. So an 1.8m high gate would be made at 1.75m high.
For replacement gates, measuring again from scratch gives you a better starting point than just measuring the old gate.
Choose the opening direction
Stand on the side where you will usually approach the gate and picture how it will be used. A side gate normally opens inwards towards the garden where possible. Opening a gate outward can cause some issues, particularly for front garden gates, as the gate may obstruct a path or pavement. Available space, sloping paths and the position of steps may also affect which way a gate opens.
After deciding on the opening direction, you need to decide which side the hinges will be on. With a gate opening inwards, away from you, the hinges will normally be on the back (inside) face of the gate, and with a gate opening towards you, the hinges will be on the front (outside) face of the gate. Which side of the gate the hinges are fitted to is up to you, but you should consider walls, path width, and other obstructions when deciding.
For timber gates, which side the hinges will be is important. Most timber gates use diagonal bracing; the brace should run from the bottom hinge corner up to the top corner on the latch side. This brace supports the gate's weight and helps reduce sagging (dropping) over time. If you fit a gate with the bracing the wrong way round, then there is a very high probability that the gate will drop within a few months, causing closing and latch problems.
Select a gate style that suits the boundary
A gate should look at home with the rest of the fencing, but practical performance matters as much as exact visual match. Closeboard gates work well with closeboard featheredge fencing and offer privacy with a robust finish. Choose a gate that is framed, ledged and braced; it is a dependable choice for side entrances and can be clad to complement many boundary styles.
Palisade gates suit traditional picket fencing and are useful where visibility matters. They are popular around front gardens, play areas and lower boundaries where a solid gate could make the space feel enclosed.
For rural, agricultural or equestrian settings, field gates are designed for wider access and a different level of use. Their size, weight, and exposure mean stronger posts, substantial fittings, and careful installation are especially important.
Timber treatment and build quality matter
Pressure-treated softwood remains a practical choice for many domestic gates. The treatment helps protect the timber against decay and insect attack, making it suitable for outdoor use when installed and maintained correctly. Gates can also be made with various hardwoods, particularly Iroko. Hardwood gates are more expensive and look great, but like treated softwood, they still require regular maintenance to keep them looking good; all timber, including hardwoods, weathers naturally, often eventually turning silver-grey, although this change can be slowed with regular care. A quality gate should have sound framing, secure joints, and be manufactured with timber appropriate to the type and size of gate. Very wide or tall gates need more strength than a lightweight garden gate, especially if they are solid boarded. A heavier gate may feel reassuring, but it also needs posts and hinges capable of supporting it. You can find more information on looking after gates in the help sheet Crestala Gate Care Information.
Keep the bottom of a timber gate clear of the ground. Constant contact with wet ground shortens its service life, regardless of treatment. If you want to retain the original colour or add a particular finish, use a suitable exterior timber treatment after the timber has dried sufficiently and follow the product guidance.
Do not treat posts and ironmongery as an afterthought
Even the best-made gate will fail prematurely if the posts are undersized, loose or poorly positioned. Gate posts endure repeated leverage every time the gate is opened, particularly with wide, solid or frequently used gates. They need to be set firmly and plumb, with sufficient depth below ground for the conditions and the weight they will carry.
For a typical domestic gate, appropriately sized timber gate posts are generally preferable. The appropriate section size depends on the gate dimensions, overall weight, ground conditions, and hardware, but heavier gates require stronger support.
Choose galvanised or suitably coated fittings for outdoor use. Hook-and-band hinges provide strong, adjustable support for many timber gates, while tee hinges can suit lighter gates. Choose a latch that's comfortable to use from the side that matters most, and a drop bolt or gate stop is useful for holding larger gates in position.
If security is a concern, look beyond the latch. A lockable bolt, hasp and staple, or purpose-made locking system can make rear access more secure. Position external fixings so they cannot simply be removed from the public side.
Allow for movement, weather and maintenance
Timber is a natural material and will expand, contract and move slightly with changing heat and moisture levels. Remember to add the clearance (about 15mm for a side gate using standard fittings) onto the gate width for positioning the gate posts. A gate that swings perfectly on a dry summer day may bind after a wet spell if there is no room for movement.
Check hinges, latches and fixings periodically, particularly after the first few months of use. Tightening loose bolts early, clearing soil from beneath the gate and adjusting the hinges can prevent minor issues becoming a pain. Gates in exposed coastal locations or windy gardens may need more regular attention. Using adjustable hinges is always a good idea, as it lets you reset the gate easily for seasonal changes.
For gates fitted near gravel drives or lawn edges, make sure the swing path remains clear. Stones, leaves and built-up soil can stop a gate from closing as easily as it should.
Plan the full gate installation
Before ordering, write down the finished opening width, gate height, hinge side, swing direction, post size and required fittings. This avoids the familiar situation of having a new gate on site but missing a latch, hook-and-band set or suitable fixings.
If you are replacing a section of fencing at the same time, install the gate posts first and build the fence line from them. The gate needs to sit over the path, so it should set the alignment. Fence panels and gravel boards are much easier to position once the posts and gate opening are set.
If you can, it is best to have the gate made to fit the gap once the posts, etc., are in place. The Crestala Team regularly helps DIYers and Fencers with gates made to fit the hole.
A well-chosen garden gate should become the dependable part of the boundary you barely need to think about: easy to use each day, secure when closed and built to handle the British weather for years to come.
