A fence can look like a simple run of panels from the garden side, but its performance is decided by much more than the panel itself. This fence panel buying guide is designed to help homeowners, landscapers and fencing contractors choose materials that suit the site, the budget and the job at hand - without finding out too late that a cheaper choice has created extra work.
The right fence should provide privacy, define a boundary and stand up to the weather in exposed gardens across Kent and East Sussex. Start with the purpose of the fence, then work through panel style, height, posts and the details that protect the installation over time.
Start with what the fence needs to do
A rear garden boundary usually calls for privacy, a tidy appearance, and a practical solution that is easy to repair. Around a patio, a decorative panel or trellis topper can soften the view without making the space feel enclosed. For a rental property, commercial site or agricultural setting, security, durability and straightforward replacement may matter more than the look of the panel.
It is worth considering who sees each side of the fence. Many panels have a finished face and a rear face with rails, although some contemporary designs are made to look good from both sides. If the boundary is shared, discuss the proposed design with the neighbour before materials are ordered. It can prevent disagreements about appearance, access and responsibility later on.
Also check the line of the fence carefully. A garden that slopes, changes level or contains established roots will need a different approach from a short, level run. Standard panels work neatly on level ground; a stepped arrangement is the practical answer on a slope. Cutting panels down may be possible, but it is better to plan this before buying so that post spacing and gravel board heights remain consistent.
Fence panel buying guide: choose the right style
Closeboard panels remain a popular choice because they offer solid screening, a traditional look and good value. Their vertical boards overlap, helping them shed rain and resist gaps forming as the timber moves naturally with the seasons. They suit most domestic boundaries and are available in a range of heights to suit most applications.
Closeboard or feather edge fencing, as it is sometimes called, does not have to be bought as pre-made panels. Instead, it can be built on site using individual boards, arris rails and posts. This takes longer to install, but gives greater flexibility for awkward lengths, changing ground levels and stronger boundary work. It is often the better choice where a continuous, tailored finish is needed. It is particularly good for sloping fence lines as it can follow the ground and does not require stepping down like panels
Waney-edge Overlap panels are generally the budget-friendly option. They provide useful privacy for sheltered gardens, but the lighter construction means they are less suited to particularly exposed locations. The quality of the framing and battens makes a real difference here. A panel is only as strong as the timber holding it together.
Decorative panels, such as the horizontal slatted or the Omega panel, are continental framed designs. The outer frame and the way they are assembled are different to the UK styles, and generally they are much harder to cut down for a part panel.
Trellis panels are useful above a fence where extra screening is needed without the weight of another full panel. They can support climbing plants and let light through, though they should not be treated as a security fence. A trellis extension will affect the overall height of the boundary, so it is worth checking local planning requirements and any property restrictions before installation.
Get the height and width right
Most UK manufactured fence panels are supplied in standard widths of 6ft or 1.83m. Most imported continental style panels are 1.8m wide. Both types of panels have a range of heights to suit the level of privacy required.
To work out the number of panels you will need, you also need to consider the width of the post. The required centre-to-centre spacing depends on the panel width and the size of the post used. Measure the full fence line. Then add the width of the post you are going to use to the width of your panels and divide the total into the fence line length. This will give you the number of panels and posts you will need. You will need to add one extra post for the end of your fence run.
Marking out the run before ordering is one of the simplest ways to check that the numbers of panels and posts you have calculated are correct. Alternatively, tell the Crestala Team what you want, and they will work it all out for you.
Height should be selected with both privacy and regulations in mind. For many domestic rear gardens, a fence up to 2 metres is permitted, while boundaries next to a road are often reduced to 1 metre max. There are exceptions, including listed buildings, conservation areas and developments with specific planning conditions. Check before erecting your fence, particularly if replacing a low front boundary with a taller fence.
Beware if you are removing a hedge in your front garden. Your hedge may be 1.5 m high, but if you remove it you may only be allowed to replace it with a 1 metre high fence.
Do not overlook ground clearance. Panels should not sit directly on soil, turf or paving. Gravel boards lift the panel clear of the ground and create a cleaner line across uneven surfaces. Concrete gravel boards offer excellent longevity; pressure-treated timber gravel boards can give a more natural finish but need periodic inspection.
If you are unsure, you can contact the Crestala Team, and they can do all the calculations for you and email you a full itemised quote.
The posts matter as much as the panels
A good panel fitted to weak, shallow or poorly aligned posts will not stay straight for long. Timber posts are more natural, attractive and easy to work with. Choose pressure-treated posts suitable for ground contact UC4 specification, rather than relying on a surface treatment alone. The cut end of any trimmed post should be treated before it goes into the ground, although it is best practice not to put cut ends into the ground.
Concrete slotted posts are a practical long-life option, particularly for exposed boundaries and locations where low maintenance is a priority. Slotted concrete posts make it easier to replace a damaged panel without dismantling the whole fence. They are heavier to handle and give a more industrial visual finish, but their resistance to rot is a major advantage.
A long-life alternative to concrete slotted posts is the innovative "H" section metal DuraPost Classic. The Classic range from DuraPost carries manufacturers' guarantees of up to 25 years and has been wind tunnel tested to over 100mph. As the face of these very strong posts is only 50mm wide, the posts have a very low visual impact.
As a rule, allow roughly 25 to 30% of the post length below ground, with deeper foundations needed for taller or more exposed fencing. Concrete around the base should be shaped to shed water away from the post rather than creating a hollow where water can collect. Accurate setting-out saves a great deal of adjustment later.
Look beyond the panel price
The cheapest panel is rarely the cheapest fence if it requires replacement after a couple of winters. Compare the thickness of the frame, the quality of the treatment, the number of support battens and the overall weight of the panel. A stronger panel may cost more initially but can be a better longer-term investment.
Pressure-treated timber is treated under pressure to help the preservative penetrate the wood. This is generally preferable to a simple dip-treated finish for fencing. Treatment improves resistance to fungal decay and insect attack, but it does not make timber maintenance-free. Keeping the fence clear of soil and vegetation, repairing damage promptly, and using an appropriate preservative treatment all help extend its life.
Fixings deserve the same attention. Use galvanised or coated exterior woodscrews, nails and brackets designed for external use. Ordinary indoor fixings can rust, stain the timber and fail prematurely. If panels are being fitted into slotted concrete posts, confirm that their finished width and thickness are compatible before ordering.
Plan delivery, access and installation
Fence panels are awkward rather than complicated, and that distinction matters. Measure side passages, gates and access points before arranging delivery, especially if panels need to reach a rear garden. A lorry can deliver materials to a suitable accessible point, but moving them through a narrow property or across a finished lawn needs a plan and enough help.
Order all core components together where possible: panels, posts, gravel boards, post mix, rails, fixings, gates and any trellis. Matching batches and dimensions avoids delays halfway through the job. Customers should also allow for sensible contingency stock on larger runs, particularly where panels may need trimming.
Before removing an old fence, identify underground services and agree access with neighbours if work will affect a shared boundary. Avoid installing large solid panels in high winds. Even a well-built fence needs time for posts and concrete to fully set before it is asked to resist strong gusts.
A carefully planned panel fence is easier to install, looks better from both sides and costs less to maintain. If you are unsure whether a panel, post or gravel board combination is right for your garden, Crestala Fencing Centre can help you weigh up the practical options before the first hole is dug.
