A gate can look perfectly made and still be frustrating to use if the posts, hinges and clearances are wrong. If you are searching for how to hang a wooden gate correctly, the job starts before the gate is lifted into place. A sound hanging post, suitable ironmongery and a little allowance for seasonal timber movement will make the difference between a gate that swings freely and one that drags within a few months.
Start with the posts, not the gate
The hinge post carries most of the load, particularly on the heavier-framed, ledged and braced domestic or driveway gates like those manufactured by Crestala. If you are using an existing post, check that its size is adequate for the size of the gate, that it is solid, upright and not beginning to rot.
For a new installation, use substantial pressure-treated timber gate posts suited to the weight and width of the gate. As a general rule, a 100 mm x 100 mm post is a sensible starting point for many pedestrian gates, while larger gates need heavier posts and more substantial fittings. Post depth depends on the ground conditions and the gate size, but setting posts securely in a hole at least 750 mm deep with well-compacted concrete or postmix is usually the right approach for a domestic timber side gate.
Set the hinge post plumb in both directions. This matters more than it may first appear. If the post is not set vertical or leans in any direction, the gate may swing open by itself, fail to meet the latch cleanly or place uneven strain on the hinges. The closing post must also be upright and positioned at the gate width plus a clearance allowance. For domestic side gates made by Crestala, we suggest allowing 15mm.
Allow the concrete to cure before hanging a heavy gate. Rushing this stage can pull a post out of line.
For Existing Posts
A timber gate needs a small gap on each side so it can move without catching the posts. This clearance is for the hinge hardware on the hanging side and an equal gap on the latch side to allow for the gate timber to expand during wet weather. For domestic garden gates made by Crestala, allow 15mm.
For existing posts, measure between the inside faces of the posts in three places: at the top, middle and bottom. If the posts are not quite parallel, use the narrowest measurement, deduct the clearance and order a gate to be made to fit between your posts. Providing the existing posts do not have more than about 10mm variation in the three measurements, the variation in the gap between the gate and posts can be covered by the gate stops, so the uneven gap will not be visible without close examination.
Ground clearance is equally important. The ground under gates is rarely as level as it looks. For a level path, 50 mm may be sufficient. When the gate opens over a sloping path or sloping entrance, allow more room so the bottom of the gate maintains at least 25 mm clearance.
Before fixing anything, place timber packers beneath the gate at the final height. This supports its weight and gives you a reliable and steady reference while positioning the hinges. Using two sets of two wedges as the packers makes it easier to line up the gate exactly in the gap. Place the wedges under the gate, in pairs, with both wedges pointing inwards. By tapping the wedges, you can adjust the gate position very easily and hold the final position while the hinge and latch are fitted.
Choose hinges that match the gate
For most timber garden gates, adjustable hooks and rides are the dependable hinge choice. Depending on whether the gate opens inwards or outwards, the bands are fixed across the rear or face of the gate as required and the hook fixes to the post. The threaded adjustable portion allows for easy tweaking of the gate to its optimum position.
A cheaper alternative to hooks and rides is the "T" hinge. This lighter hinge is not adjustable and is suitable for gates up to 1.2m wide.
Whichever hinge type you choose, the hinge set size required should ideally be about 50% of the gate width.
Preferably use galvanised fittings as these will last for many years. Black-coated fittings are available if you prefer. In exposed coastal locations or persistently damp gardens, corrosion resistance is more important. A new gate will not stay looking good for long if its hinges and fixings rust prematurely.
Hinges are sold in pairs, which, provided they are appropriately sized, is sufficient for most standard pedestrian gates. A taller, wider or heavier gate may benefit from a third hinge, fitted to the centre rail to help distribute the load. If you decide to fit a third hinge, it must be aligned perfectly with the other two hinges. If the alignment is off, it can place extra strain on the other hinges and twist the gate frame.
For a ledged and braced gate, make sure the diagonal braces rise from the lower hinge side towards the upper latch side. This arrangement transfers the gate's weight back towards the hinge post. If the braces run the other way, the gate is more likely to sag.
How to hang a wooden gate step by step
With the posts checked, opening measured and the correct fittings ready, hanging the gate is straightforward but should not be rushed.
Mark the hinge positions
Position the hinge rides in the centre of the top and bottom horizontal rails.
Hold the bands against the gate and mark their fixing holes. It is always a good practice to drill pilot holes whenever possible as this reduces the possibility of the timber splitting. Secure the rides using suitable screws and carriage bolts. Through-bolting is particularly worthwhile because it gives a stronger, longer-lasting fixing.
Fit the hooks to the post
Set the gate on its packers in the opening with the required side and ground gaps. Use a spirit level across the top rail, but also check the gate visually against the posts.
Mark the hook positions directly from the fitted bands. Fix hook plates securely to the hinge post, using heavy-duty screws of an appropriate diameter and length for the selected hinge set. The fixing must carry repeated movement, wind pressure and the occasional forceful close.
Hang, test and adjust
Lift the gate carefully onto the hooks. For anything larger than a small side gate, this is a two-person task. Remove the packers slowly and open the gate through its full swing. Look for rubbing at the ground, catching on the post, or a tendency to swing open or shut on its own. Adjust the gate position using the adjusters on each hinge so that the gate sits central in the gap between the posts and opens and shuts smoothly.
Fit the latch, stop and gate furniture
Fit the latch only after you are happy with the gate position. Mark its position with the gate closed, making sure it meets the closing post without lifting or forcing the gate out of line. A Suffolk latch or a Ring latch combined with a pair of Brenton padlockable bolts are popular traditional options for timber side gates, while replacing the Brenton bolts with a key-operated long-throw lock offers more security.
Gate stops fixed to both posts give the gate a firm surface to close against and protect the gate from being pushed too far through the opening. It is important that the gate stops actually stop the gate and not the latch arms on the Ring or Suffolk latches. Add a cabin hook where you need to hold the gate open.
Protect the timber and plan for movement
Even pressure-treated timber benefits from good aftercare. Treat any freshly cut edges, drilled holes or trimmed sections with an appropriate end-grain preservative.
Do not paint or stain a new treated gate immediately. Treated timber needs time to dry out slowly. Once suitable, a quality exterior finish can improve colour retention and provide extra weather protection. For information about caring for your new gates from Crestala, we have prepared a Crestala Gate Care Information helpsheet.
Check the hinges, fixings and latch after the first few weeks. Timber can dry, settle and move as the weather changes, especially after installation in spring or autumn. Minor regular adjustments throughout the year keep your gate hanging and closing properly.
A well-hung wooden gate should feel simple to use: opens cleanly, closes without a shove and sits neatly in its opening. Taking time over the posts and hardware is a practical investment that keeps it that way.
